Lately, I’ve been seeing mounted Staghorn Ferns trending a bit. Staghorn Ferns aren’t always easy to find, but Orchids can be mounted too. And since it’s something I’ve wanted to try for a long time, I’m going to show you how to mount an Orchid.
Last year, my oldest started building a shed. When he was digging the post holes, he pulled out some really cool looking bits of tree root. I decided to use one of them to mount my orchid.
I mounted an orchid on one of them. Many orchids are epiphytes, meaning they would normally grow on trees.
Materials to mount an orchid:
Orchid – most grocery store orchids are phalaenopsis which are perfect for this. If you purchase a different type just make sure it’s one that likes growing in trees.
Bark. You can purchase cork bark in pet stores where it’s used by reptile enthusiasts, or you can purchase from Amazon using my affiliate link here.
Sphagnum moss
Thread or clear fishing line.
I started by cleaning all the existing growing media from the orchids roots. And then I forgot to take any more pictures until after I finished.
Thankfully I made a video of the process. I sincerely apologize – I had no idea I breathe that loud!
I am so happy with how my mounted orchid looks! It isn’t quite as cool as a mounted Staghorn fern, but it’s still pretty neat looking!
I have dealt with fleas for over 25 years, as long as I’ve lived in this house and had pets. Thankfully flea control has come a long way and the stuff actually works now, because where I live the fleas also live. Recently I saw a discussion about flea control on-line and I got pretty ticked off. (Ticks are another problem where I live.)
Among the suggestions were sprinkling baking soda in the carpets and using vinegar as a perimeter spray. I’ve heard it all when I mention fleas to my neighbors, from “I just bathe my dog in Head & Shoulders” to “I just use the flea shampoo”.
Please note: This post has affiliate links, which means if you buy something through one of my links I will earn a small commission at no extra cost to you.
Every one of those suggestions is useless! Although I do shampoo my dog with Head & Shoulders for its anti-itch properties, I prefer to spend my time and money on something that works. Fleas are so hard to kill it takes 24 hours to drown them. There is no homeopathic/organic/natural remedy that will prevent or control fleas on your pet and in your home. Let me repeat myself here.
There is no homeopathic/organic/natural remedy that will prevent or control fleas on your pet and in your home.
Flea control before Advantage
Pre-Advantage days were a nightmare. I would spray cracks and crevices, under furniture and appliances because fleas lay their eggs in dusty places. Pre-Advantage was flea bathing a hissing spitting cat and then using flea spray on the same hissing spitting cat and then watching them drool big gobs of slobber on my bed. I’m sure I’ve still got the scars on my arms to prove I’ve been in the trenches when it comes to battling fleas.
The flea sprays of the time would kill fleas on contact (as long as the spray touches them) and then prevent flea eggs from hatching. I would spend $50 or so annually on these products – the best there was then – and entire weekends battling fleas. I never won the war until Advantage came on the market. Advantage turned my dog into a walking flea killer. Applied once a month any fleas that wanted to hop on that snack bar ate their last meal.
Flea Control that works!
If you really want to control fleas on your pet – get Advantage. It actually works and you won’t need to spend an entire weekend crawling on your hands and knees spraying under baseboards. We have even used Advantage on Guinea Pigs – your vet can help you work out the correct dosage – with absolutely no harm to the Pig.
Signs you’ve got a flea problem.
Excessive licking and chewing is always the first sign. It is hard to see the fleas themselves – one way to do it is firmly and rapidly rub the fur on your dogs back up and down, then quickly turn them over, the fleas will all run to the dogs belly. This is hard to do with a larger dog or a dog wary of being in a submissive position.
Even if you don’t see the actual flea – signs of flea dirt are just as accurate. You’ll see flea dirt in the crease of their hind legs mostly but also around their anus. Fleas will go to a dogs eyes and anus for moisture – which is why if you are using flea shampoo you suds up their neck and back-end before working on the rest of the dog.
Areas that your dog can easily chew will have thinning fur or bald patches. Sometimes you can see actual clip marks from their teeth in the fur from chewing. Some dogs will develop a severe flea allergy resulting in serious skin issues, including flea allergy dermatitis. Fleas feed on blood, so they can also cause anemia and even grosser than the blood sucking thing – they can give your dog or cat tapeworm.
If you have fleas
Flea products sold in pet stores are not effective. Flea shampoos will kill the fleas on the dog, but will do nothing to prevent re-infestation. There are drops sold in pet stores, made by Hartz, etc. that can work as a temporary measure but they are nowhere near as effective as Advantage or Revolution (also effective for preventing Heartworm) or any of the other brands your vet can supply. Advantage can be purchased on Amazon. It will cost more than vinegar, baking soda or borax, but it actually works.
If you’re going to put a chemical on your dog, and you will have to if you want to control fleas, it may as well be one that actually works. Let me repeat myself here.
If you’re going to put a chemical on your dog, and you will have to if you want to control fleas, it may as well be one that actually works.
I know I should wait until tomorrow and get prettier pictures for this post, but I won’t. I just finished planting my tomato cage mannequin and I want to show her off now! Here is how to plant a mannequin for your garden!
I was a bit worried that my mannequin would end up like the owl or the bunny and I wouldn’t like it plants. So before planting my mannequin, I spent some time on Pinterest for inspiration and ideas. I think most are done by floral designers and worth looking at first.
Choosing plants
I planted my mannequin with 2 flats of seed begonias and four small spider plants. When I couldn’t decide what color of begonia to use, I picked the mixed trays. I’ve always been a bit of a sucker for mixed flats of flowers anyhow, I just love seeing the colors all jumbled together.
I also used a bunch of Tradescantia (Wandering Jew) and a pretty small-leaved English Ivy. All of these are plants that do well at my house, where it’s very shaded. Which plants you choose should take into account your own climate and conditions.
Planting the Mannequin
For the bottom of my mannequin, I used cuttings of the Wandering Jew. It roots so easily, that I just stuck them right into the moss.
It seems like there always has to be that one blurry picture in the bunch, but here she is with the first flat of begonia.
And here she is finished! I pulled the ivy apart and separated the plants. I used florist wire to ‘pin’ it where I wanted it. Ivy has aerial roots, so it should eventually settle into the moss where I’ve pinned it. For anyone disappointed that I did not use succulents, there are 92 begonia plants in her skirt. If I had used succulents, that would be over $200 worth of succulents.
First sunny day, I’ll get her outside for some beauty shots! What do you think?
For a while now I’ve wanted to make myself a planted dress form but looking at prices for those wire mannequins that wasn’t working for me. So I made my own from tomato cages. Keep reading if you would like to see how to make a tomato cage mannequin for your garden.
Tomato Cage Mannequin Materials
Please note – some of the following links are affiliate links. This means if you make a purchase through my link, I will receive a small commission at no extra cost to you.
For the frame you will need:
2 tomato cages, one smaller than the other. The most critical part is that the middle hoop of the smaller cage is the same size as the bottom hoop of the larger cage.
Chicken wire. I’ve included a link, but try your local dollar store or hardware store. I get mine at the dollar store for $3 for a small roll.
If you are mossing and filling your frame to plant, it takes a lot of moss. I used 5 of the 1/2 lb bags to moss my frame plus a large bag of potting soil. You don’t have to moss your frame if you decide you just want an ornament for your garden.
Making the Tomato Cage Mannequin
To make the frame, you will trim the large cage below the bottom ring and the small cage below the middle ring (leaving the middle ring and top largest ring). The large cage becomes the skirt of your mannequin and the small one is the bodice or torso.
To give your mannequin a bit more definition, bend the top hoop of the small cage into an oval. Use one of the vertical wires as the center of the front and bend the top ring so it starts to suggest a bust. Then add a ring of heavier wire to further define the bust. If you make an eyelet in the ring, it is easier to fasten securely to the tomato cage.
My original plan was to make a two-part frame, but once I started adding the chicken wire, it seemed better to cover it all as one.
Here you can see the fully covered frame. My topiary was going into a pot, so I did not cover the bottom. If aren’t putting yours in a pot you will need to cover the bottom and probably reinforce it by running some galvanized wire across the opening. (see my succulent turtle instructions for how to do this)
Mossing and filling the mannequin
If you decide to moss your mannequin to use it as a planter, you will need a lot of moss.
Sorry for the blurry photo, but the way I did this is I would moss a little way up the sides and then add soil to that part before moving up to the next section. Or that’s how I did it after a couple of hours avoiding doing it.
In this photo you can see that I filled it in layers. I still have to close up the top with a piece of chicken wire and plant her. She is about 3 feet tall (not including the pot) and I’m satisfied with how she turned out. I was a bit worried that my mannequin would end up like the owl or the bunny and I wouldn’t like it planted. So before planting my mannequin, I spent some time on Pinterest for inspiration and ideas. I think most are done by floral designers and worth looking at first.
Choosing plants for your mannequin
I planted my mannequin with 2 flats of seed begonias and four small spider plants. When I couldn’t decide what color of begonia to use, I picked the mixed trays. I’ve always been a bit of a sucker for mixed flats of flowers anyhow, I just love seeing the colors all jumbled together.
I also used a bunch of Tradescantia (Wandering Jew) and a pretty small-leaved English Ivy. All of these are plants that do well at my house, where it’s very shaded. Which plants you choose should take into account your own climate and conditions.
Planting the Mannequin
For the bottom of my mannequin, I used cuttings of the Wandering Jew. It roots so easily, that I just stuck them right into the moss.
It seems like there always has to be that one blurry picture in the bunch, but here she is with the first flat of begonia.
And here she is finished! I pulled the ivy apart and separated the plants. I used florist wire to ‘pin’ it where I wanted it. Ivy has aerial roots, so it should eventually settle into the moss where I’ve pinned it. For anyone disappointed that I did not use succulents, there are 92 begonia plants in her skirt. If I had used succulents, that would be over $200 worth of succulents.
When I started the mannequin I was pretty set that she was going to be my last topiary for a while, but of course I’ve already got another idea swirling around in my head. All told, I spent 3 evenings on this topiary and even planted she cost less than a pre-made mannequin.
Let me know what you think of her in the comments!
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For a fresh pop of color in the spring, I adore spring pansies! Especially if it’s a mix of color like these are. We’ve finally had a break in the weather here so I’ve had a look at all the yard work I need to do.
Unfortunately, my turtles from last year did not do so well over the winter. I blame myself for not properly winterizing them and the dogs for doing what boy dogs do. Because of the dogs, this turtle needed a complete do over instead of a simple replanting. Which gave me the perfect opportunity to make a better video of the process!
To make this Topiary you’ll need:
Most of these items can be purchased at a dollar store or nursery. I’ve included some helpful links for the materials below, they are affiliate links.
Building the topiary is the same process as the Succulent Turtle but you can check out the video too. I’m getting a handle on the technical side of recording video tutorials so it’s better than the first one!
I’ve talked a couple of times about alternatives to succulents when planting your topiary because not everyone has the right conditions for growing succulents.
This topiary planted with spring pansies looks so cheerful on my deck that I’m glad I tried it myself. Later on in the season when it gets too hot here for pansies I’ll replace them with begonias.
Want to see more? Check out another version of this turtle here – Hosta Turtle
If you enjoyed this post, don’t forget to share it with your friends! For more just like it follow me on Pinterest, Facebook and Twitter or sign up for regular updates by email.
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