Buying Vintage Knitting Machines, What I Wish I Knew Then…

There are so many things I wish I had known before I started buying vintage knitting machines. Things like never buy a machine displayed in a basement with visible moisture issues. That would be me when I bought my chunky Singer SK-150.

It’s usable after lots of elbow grease, I’ve even knit dishcloths on it. But it’s still a junker machine. Even after spending $50 replacing most of the needles because they were so rusty it still needs more.

So this post is all about what I wish I knew then.

Buy From a Machine Knitter

Of the 3 machines I have, the one that was in the best condition was the one that came from someone who actually used the machine. The woman I bought my first machine from may have tried it, but she never really used it. They did however oil it before listing it. Unfortunately they did not clean it first and what a mess that made.

Singer Knitting MachineWhen I brought my Singer 700 home, I did a full tear-down of the carriage to remove felted yarn fibers and actual yarn from around the spindles of the patterning drum. I also replaced a lot of the needles on both beds because it had been used by someone who did not know what they were doing – before me that is, since I had no clue what I was doing when I first used it either.

Don’t expect to just start knitting immediately

Unless you’re buying your vintage knitting machine from a business that specializes in them, don’t expect to just set it up and go. At the minimum before you try to knit with the machine, you will need to check the sponge bar or needle retaining bar is in good condition. Ideally you should do a full inspection of the needles and a give it a good cleaning. If you use your machine, you will need to maintain your machine so you may as well start right. There are loads of resources, many of them model specific, on YouTube. The video below is old but a fabulous resource.

Is everything that came with the machine there?

There are some necessary accessories to knitting machines and more if you’re buying one with a ribber attachment. Some accessories are brand specific – Brother machines typically come with a cast on comb, Singers do not. Replacing any of the ones you really need might not come easy. You will spend a lot of time searching for missing bits and pieces and the cost adds up.

The best way to find out what should come with a machine is to download the manual for the model you are looking at before you go to see it. There will be a list of items that come with the machine at the beginning of the manual. Don’t forget to research any optional attachments that are coming with the machine so you can be sure to have all of their parts and and accessories. Manuals for most machines and even many attachments are available at Machine Knitting Etc.

At a minimum you should expect the following:

Please note all of the links below are affiliate links.

Clamps

Your machine must be clamped to a surface to use it. It should come with ‘C’ clamps and if there is a ribber, a special angled clamp that tilts the machine to the proper angle for using the ribber. If you’re buying a machine with a ribber you need both sets of clamps to set up your machine.

Weights

Claw weights for the main bed – ideally 5, and if it comes with a ribber, barrel weights – 3 large and 2 small. Keep in mind this is the minimum needed. You will probably be scouring Amazon for extras.

Needle pushers

My Brother machine should have come with one needle pusher, my Singer 700 came with 3 and I think the Chunky came with 4. These help you pull your needles forward either as a group or in a variety of staggered and alternating positions. Chunky pushers don’t work on standard machines and vice-versa. They are also brand specific – Brother needles have bigger butts so the Singer pushers don’t work very well for Brother machines.

Transfer tools

Each of mine came with three transfer tools plus a latched hook. These are specific to the gauge of your machine.

Cast on combs.

Brother machines come with a cast on comb, Singers do not. But if you have a ribber, then you need a different type of cast on comb. Usually in 2 lengths – one for the full bed and a shorter one for knitting narrower projects.

Goes without saying (almost)

Unless you’re buying a super cheap parts machine, the yarn mast, carriage and sinker plates along with any model specific plates or cams etc. If it comes with a ribber – the carriage for that and the arm that connects the two carriages.

Check the needle bed carefully

Storage matters a lot! A machine that was stored on it’s end could have a bowed or warped needle bed. A machine that was stored in a damp place could have rust. A bit of rust on the needles is one thing but rust anywhere on the needle bed is a red flag. If the plastics have yellowed this is strictly cosmetic. The plastics used in these machines were not UV stable so yellowing is likely due to sun exposure. If the plastics have not yellowed, be mindful to cover the machine when not in use and keep it out of direct sunlight. And never ever store your machine on it’s end. Always store them flat.

This is by no means an exhaustive list, just a few things I wish I had known beforehand.

Should You Buy a Vintage Knitting Machine

Buying a knitting machine means first deciding if you want a vintage knitting machine or a new one. I went with the vintage knitting machines although I might some day add a newer one like the LK150 to my collection.

Please note, some of the links below are affiliate links. I will receive a small commission on purchases made through these links.

Restored Brother 930 Knitting Machine with Ribber

Vintage Knitting Machine or New?

There are good reasons to choose either. While Brother, Singer, Elna and any other sewing machine brands have stopped producing the metal style knitting machines, you can buy Taitexma machines new. Of course there are also the plastic bed LK150 (affiliate link) machines. They have some advantages over the metal beds. They’re much lighter for one and also you can expand the bed for more needles and knit much wider items.

On the other hand if you choose to go vintage, there are more optional accessories that may either come with the machine or you can search for on eBay and other used marketplaces. Just expect to do some work before you start knitting.

You will also sometimes see reference to Japanese or Japanese style knitting machines. Typically, the Singer and Brother machines were made in Japan. Passap on the other hand, were made in Switzerland. I don’t have a Passap myself but there are some differences between them and the Japanese machines.

What kind of knitting do you want to do?

2 rows of held stitches

Mid to Bulky Gauge

To knit afghans and dish cloths with worsted weight yarn like Bernat Super Saver then you need a mid to bulky machine. The LK150 will absolutely work for you, but you can get vintage mid to bulky weight machines too. You just might have to search a little longer.

Circular Sock Machines or CSM’s

When socks and hats are your jam, then maybe you don’t even want a flatbed machine. There are the Sentro and Addi (affiliate link) type machines for not much money and a lot of YouTube videos showing what you can do with them. Then there are the expensive vintage metal CSM’s and even more expensive new metal CSM’s, or the 3D printed CSM’s such as Dean & Beans Sock Machine.

Fine Gauge

There are fine gauge vintage knitting machines out there that are meant to knit the finest of thread like yarns for lace and other lightweight fabrics. But unless you’re already hand knitting that type of yarn it’s not usually a first time purchase, and it’s one you would probably search some time to find.

Double Bed Knitting Machine Racked for Tubular Knitting

Standard Gauge

Standard gauge machines are the most commonly available from eBay, Facebook Marketplace and other second-hand marketplaces. One of these will allow you to knit yarns from cobweb to fingering or sometimes DK weight. Because they’re more common the also tend to have the most optional accessories available – depending on the brand and model. Brother seems to have produced the most accessories by far and some of them are very useful.

Patterning or Non-Patterning

Singer Knitting Machine

The most basic machines can do some patterning, it’s just a matter of how.

pull every other needle to hold positionA non-patterning machine can do patterns, but it’s all done manually. An example of this would be my Simple Knitted Dishcloth.

Punch CardsMy Singer 700 is an example of punch card machine. For these machines, a punch card is fed into a reader. This determines which needles will be knit on each pass. With your carriage settings you decide if the pattern will be tuck, slip, or fair isle. You can buy blank punch cards and create your own designs but generally restricted to either a 12 or 24 stitch repeat.

Brother 930 K Carriage

Then there’s the electronic machines like my Brother 930. Depending on how advanced the model is, you can do a lot more with these and with fewer restrictions on pattern width. Some of them can be connected to your computer and with the right software you can create patterns that extend the full width of your needle bed.

See what to watch for when buying vintage in my next post.

Restored Brother 930 Knitting Machine

eeRestored Brother 930 Knitting Machine with Ribber

I just finished restoring this Brother 930 Knitting Machine and wow is it ever a beautiful machine. It came with a tilt-table and which is amazing to have. With a tilt-table, I can leave the ribber on the machine but when I’m not using it, adjust it so the main bed sits flat. Then when I need the ribber, I just adjust it back so the main bed and ribber are at the correct tilt.

When the first owner actually used her machine…

The first owner took such good care of her machine. It was a pleasure to clean it up and restore it to working condition. She kept her machine out of direct sunlight and covered it when she wasn’t using it. This prevented the plastics from yellowing and kept out the worst of the dust once the first owner was no longer able to use it.

Secondly because she knew how to use the machine the ribber mounted to the main bed at exactly the correct tolerances on the first try. When I cleaned and replaced all 400 or so needles (200 for each bed), I only needed to replace one needle. My first machine, a Singer 700, required 50 new needles on each bed to knit and probably still needs more if I want to knit the full bed.

Of course the sponge bar needed a new sponge. The sponge deteriorates over time and no longer keeps the needles in their proper position. But that happens no matter how well you care for your machine.

I published a rather lengthy video on the cleaning process.

Or you can just follow along below.

The Main Carriage

Brother 930 K Carriage

Starting with the main carriage, I removed the plastics first and washed all of those in dish soap (no it wasn’t Blue Dawn because that shit isn’t the magic potion you all think it is) and warm water. Then I spent a considerable amount of time freeing the buttons from their hardened grease and oil prison. Once everything was moving freely and correctly, I reassembled it all so I could answer the most crucial question…

Does it Knit?

Fair Isle Sample Knitted on a Brother 930

Well, yes, yes it does knit. And it knits beautifully! I knitted this sample of fair isle from one of the built-in patterns and it did not miss a stitch.

This tuck stitch sample came out beautifully. Again, I used one of the built-in stitch patterns.

Same for this slip stitch sample.

The Ribber Carriage

Next the Ribber Carriage got the same treatment. I didn’t spend quite as much time on it, there are fewer moving parts internally so hardened grease and oil wasn’t as much of an issue. Of course the most important thing is always going to be – will it knit?

And it does knit as you can see from this 1 x 1 ribbing sample.

What’s Next?

So that just leaves the garter carriage to go over and test. Then I want to spend a little time organizing my knitting space before I choose a pattern and start knitting. Hmm, do I start with a sweater? Maybe a scarf or shawl?

I Bought A Brother 930 Electronic Knitting Machine!

Brother 930 Knitting MachineI bought another knitting machine – a Brother 930 this time. This one is an electronic machine and I am pretty excited about it! I had already bought some knitting machine yarn from the same lady, and she gave me a pretty good deal on this machine. I mean honestly, wait until you see all the goodies it came with!

So let’s get into what this Brother 930 came with!

Brother KG95 Garter Carriage

A Brother KG95 Garter Carriage

If you’ve never used a knitting machine, it’s important to know they only form stitches in one direction. A knitting machine on it’s own can only knit stockinette. Sure, there can be patterning in those stitches but you can’t knit garter stitch unless you’re willing to do some pretty extensive hand manipulation. Knitting ribbing requires either some hand manipulation of the stitches or a ribber to attach to your machine (this machine did come with the KR 850 Ribber as well).

What the garter carriage does is allow all of that to be done on the machine without any intervention. You set it up and that little guy will chug away back and forth across your machine, knitting and purling as the program tells it to. Is it fast? Apparently not, but does it matter if you can be doing something else while the garter carriage does its thing? Of course not.

Brother KG93 Garter Carriage

A Brother KG93 Garter Carriage

Yes that’s right. A second garter carriage. This one was not in regular use so the cover didn’t quite cover it. So yeah, it’s a little dusty but that’s okay. We can clean it.

PPD - Pattern Programming Device

A PPD or Pattern Programing Device

So way back in the day’s of compact floppy disks, you could create a stitch pattern on your computer and save it to a diskette. Then you could pop the diskette into this gadget and your machine would knit the pattern! You could also purchase patterns that other designers created on diskette and use those too. There are some diskettes that came with it, but it will be a while before I have time to really look at them.

But wait – there’s more!

knitting machine accessories

A bunch of accessories, including spare needles for the Garter Carriage which is a good thing since they are hard to find and cost around $30 each.

Punch Cards

An absolute pile of punch cards!

Now I don’t think this machine uses them, but my Singer SK700 can! Plus I’m just tickled to have a bin that is exactly the right size to store them.

When you can, buy your machine from a knitter.

The difference between buying a knitting machine from someone who used it, and buying a machine from someone who did not is remarkable. First, she kept her machine covered. So yes some things got dusty but most are remarkably clean.

The second garter carriage is dusty, you could see it in the picture above.

So is the main or K carriage. The Ribber Carriage looks the same.

Brother Lace Carriage

And the Lace Carriage. But they can be cleaned no problem.

The sponge bar will need to be replaced (probably on the ribber too). It is quite flat and crumbly as old sponge gets. It should be around 3 times as thick.

So for the next week or so, I will be spending my evening cleaning up this Brother 930 and all of it’s beautiful accessories. I can’t wait to start using it.

Do you knit or crochet? Or do you have a knitting machine yourself and if you do – do you use it? Let me know in the comments.

Simple Knitted Dishcloth for Chunky Knitting Machines

Knitted dishcloth on the chunky machine

When I first learned to hand knit, dish cloths were the go-to beginner friendly project and I love the results. But – I absolutely hate hand knitting dishcloths. It’s such a short row to knit that it feels like I spend more time turning the project than actually knitting. So working out a pattern for a knitted dishcloth on the chunky machine was a must do project for me.

Now if you follow me on YouTube, I did a couple of videos on rehabbing my Singer 150 Chunky Knitter. It’s still got a few issues with needles, two of the brand new needles in the center portion of the bed were defective. Which is why my e-wrap cast on is off center. I’ve cast on 25 needles for my dishcoth because I prefer a smaller cloth. This dishcloth can be knit on any machine capable of knitting this weight of yarn. No patterning capability needed.

For the first row, I set my carriage to tuck stitch. For my machine that is done by setting the Russell Levers at the sides of the carriage to position ‘-‘ instead of ‘=’. Set the stitch selector to stockinette. On my machine, tension 9 is a good stitch size. Keep in mind the yarn shrinks in the wash which can make the cloth feel more like a pot holder than a dish cloth if the stitch size is too small. You can see how much the washed dishcloth on the right of the first picture shrunk compared to the just knitted cloth on the left.

pull every other needle to hold positionNext leaving the first 2 needles in working position, I pull every other needle out to ‘hold’.

2 rows of held stitches

Then I knit two rows. Next I change my Russel Levers back to ‘=’ to knit all needles.

Knit one row. Change the Russel Levers back to ‘-‘ to skip held needles.

Pull opposing needles to hold position starting one needle from the edge this time. Knit two more rows using tuck settings. Then one row with Russel Levers set to ‘=’ to knit all needles. That’s all there is to it.

I continue on in the pattern until my row counter is around 70. Then I bind off after the last row of all needles knit.