My biggest sewing project in December is finally complete – I made a coat! Not just any coat either, but a coat that is fully insulated and lined, which is a really big deal considering it was my first attempt at coatmaking.
I’ve always felt that whatever your hobby, there’s always that one special ‘skill’ project. Usually it’s a highly intricate and involved project and its main purpose is to show mastery of a technique – which is why I call it a skill project. In sewing, there are several of these projects. Jeans would be one and bra-making seems to be another sewist dream. I feel coatmaking is part of the group too, because this was a really big project.
Big project or not, it was completely worth it! This coat checks nearly all my must haves.
- It is fully lined and insulated – so it’s warm.
- It’s insulated using Thinsulate – so it isn’t too bulky.
- The fabric is windproof and water-resistant, plus it is very washable.
- There isn’t a speck of velcro on it so it won’t ruin any hand knit scarves I might want to wear.
- Stylish
Usually when I go looking for a ready to wear coat I have to choose between practical & warm or stylish. Generally if it’s stylish it isn’t warm and it’s never practical. I need a coat I can throw in the washing machine and this one is exactly that. Still with all that, I didn’t set out this fall to make myself a coat, it just kind of happened.
The Fabric!
I came across the red soft shell fabric sometime in the fall for a bargain price of $6 per metre. That’s when I started planning to make a coat. I found the lining fabric about a month later, but didn’t get my Thinsulate until November 19th when Fabricland had a 55% of sale for Sewciety members. Considering the regular price for Thinuslate is nearly $30 per metre, it was worth it to wait for the sale.
The Pattern!
I used Vogue pattern 8884, view C. I left off the belt and the sleeve doo-hickeys. Not that I’m opposed to taking the extra time to sew details, but I knew that after the first wash those extras would be living in the bottom of my laundry basket, never to see their belt-loops again. I also shortened it by 4″ to the same length as view A. For size, I went with a 16 graded to 18 at the waist, but if I were to make it as an insulated coat again I would go with a straight 18.
I did cut a second set of sleeves, the first set were too snug. In all honesty the second set aren’t as roomy as I would like either, with the Thinsulate they could use another inch of ease at the bicep.
Cutting the pattern was nerve-wracking. There are a lot of pieces for this coat and tissue patterns are not my favorite. Keeping them safe from my cat meant a lot of extra vigilance. As an extra challenge, pins are a bit of a no-no with softshell fabric, they leave noticeable holes. This made transferring pattern marks a bit of a challenge, but I made it work. There were other challenges too with both the fabric and the Thinsulate, I talk more about that here – Coat making with Softshell and Thinsulate.
How do you fill your time in the winter?
Then I started sewing again, and after 2 weeks of my sewing living in my kitchen, I decided it was time to move it out of shared living spaces and set up a dedicated area.
I finished my fourth and probably final, for this year at least, 
That precision may not have given me a perfect placket, but my v-neck is nearly perfect! I used a tricot interfacing this time around and I will probably use it more often in the future.
This summer I’ve switched it all up and started sewing again after a 15 year hiatus. Now there’s a process I enjoy. Turning fabric into something useful and wearable.
I first encountered Stachys Bello Grigio a year ago in California. The common name for Stachys is Lambs Ears, which is a pretty apt description of the soft furry leaves of these plants, but none of them are as crisply white as Bello Grigio.
Bello Grigio immediately became my must have plant for the year. Except it was nearly unheard of – even on Google. This year I got lucky and managed to get two. I gave one to my mother and kept the other one.
